This little osteria had a good vantage point across the sunlit square, though it took two trips to find it empty enough to settle in. Drawn with the help of wine and several delish crusty ham rolls. Souvenir seller looked as if he had much better things to do, but flogged tat to tourists with perfect charm. Elegant Venetians on their lunch breaks, families with backpacks and cameras and teenage children, that young woman and her dog... and there were two rather jolly elderly Venetian ladies, but sitting beside me and hence out of the picture.
The topknot is what captivated me though. Have only seen them in Kurosawa films and on small children.